Tuesday, November 2, 2010

I’m in love with Nepal all over again.

Trekking was AMAZING.

I realised I’ve run out of words to describe Nepal.

Breath-taking, stunning, spectacular, awe inspiring, fantastic, beautiful, wondrous…

I went with Kinnari on a organised trek for 5 days to Poon Hill at 3219m. We made it in 4 days, and went paragliding and stayed an extra night in Pokhara.

I almost died the first day (as you all should know, I am slightly adverse to exercise.) We walked in VERY hot weather, uphill for 5 hours, and then an extra hour to make it to the top of the steepest hill I’ve ever climbed. BUT IT WAS WORTH IT.

This was our morning cup of tea view from Ulleri -

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We stayed in tea houses the whole way round, and this one was empty and had the best hot shower ever, and the cutest little family running it.

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We got up early the next day and watched all the other trekkers who had stayed at the more touristy spot at the bottom of the hill struggle past. Then we set off up the hill, packs and all, and I discovered that there is a reason I lived in Wellington for 4 years – it was all building up to be able to climb massive hills for hours.

We walked through tiny little villages, and past farms and waterfalls. I took over 300 photos (managed to cull out about 100), I’ve managed to put them all online! It took all day to load them, but worth a wee look!

The second night we stayed in Gorepani, and got up at 5 to walk up to Poon Hill for the sunrise. It was beautiful, but crowded. There were about 150 people at the top of this blimmin hill. I hadn’t realised there were so many trekkers in the area!

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These are the Annapurna ranges, in the most popular trekking area in Nepal. To be honest, I loved the trekking but I think if I did it again I would definitely do something a little less popular. I think I met about 10 New Zealanders over the 4 days!

The scenery is absolutely stunning, and the pictures don’t do it justice. On the third night we stayed in Tadapani, met some Americans and Australians and drank an Everest beer or two (which wiped everyone out, from the altitude I guess!) We trekked through the most gorgeous little village the next morning, and forest which was exactly like New Zealand and Taranaki bush. I got very nostalgic :)

It was lovely being away from Kathmandu and the dust, pollution, rubbish, crazy drivers and general chaos. Pokhara is great, I’d’ve liked to stay longer but Kinnari had to get back on Monday for her flight Tuesday morning back to the States. Maybe another time!

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Above right: masala tea at 6am in Ulleri watching the sunrise

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Kinnari and I at Poon Hill, very very cold.

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Fishtail mountain on the right, millet seed drying in the sun on the left.

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Full photo album here!

The final day was 8 hours walking downhill, and was the hardest exercise I’ve ever done. My knees and feet were killing me, as well as my calves, and then I rolled my ankle and had to carry on walking for 4 hours. We got back to Pokhara at about 7pm, I had a hot bath in the dirtiest little bathroom yet, and we had dinner at a great little Korean restaurant on the lakeside. It had New Zealand beef on the menu! (Beef not buff.) We went to bed early, got up for a great breakfast of banana pancakes, good coffee and fresh orange juice at a place called The Wooden Coffee House, a cafe run by SEWA, a Nepali-Dutch not-for-profit organisation that aims to keep families together by providing education and training for mothers of street children, and projects that provide income for them so kids can be kept in the home. They work from the street level up – find the kids, look after them while they get the mothers on their feet and slowly get them back into the family, while helping support with education and health.

We went boating on Phewa lake after that, which was great, saw tonnes of fish and also how dirty the water was, and we cracked ourselves up laughing at our guide who  was scared of the water but had a terrible ego and would take his life jacket off every time another boat came past and people were looking.

We went to Devis Fall for a look too, but I didn’t have my camera at either the lake or waterfall, so when I hear from Kinnari, will get one or two photos up! Also some from paragliding, which was FANTASTIC.  We followed eagles around, and there were about 25 paragliders in the air at the same time, and the sky was beautifully clear so we could see the ranges. I wasn’t scared at all, it was very relaxing, very easy, and made me want to learn how to do it myself. And bring on skydiving!!!

The big thing about the whole trip was that it was organised by a trekking company. I would never do it like this again. In terms of ease, it was great, and we had nothing to think about, but in terms of wanting to do our own thing, or making changes to our plans, it was not really a go-er. Our guide wasn’t great to start off with, and was very demanding. I don’t think this is typical, as the other guides of people we met while trekking seemed great, told them lots about the area and had good communication skills, as well as not needing attention all the time and knew when to leave their clients alone. Our guide had the habit of talking about how he wanted a foreigner (i.e. me or Kinnari) to pay for him to go overseas, wanting a photo to be taken of him at every stopping point and of walking half a metre behind you step for step, even when walking up and down hill. He tried to hit on Kinnari and by the end of the trek his English had degenerated so badly that we barely understood what he wanted us to do, our information about the area was limited to the name of the village plus a noun such as ‘mountain’, and we were instead ordered to ‘come’ every 3 or 4 minutes. This of course made these two strong willed gals VERY obstinate. Much to our relief he seemed to finally get that we didn’t want to be keeping him entertained, nor would we be bossed around, and left us alone. Not without many uncomfortable and awkward moments for a day.

I think for a small trek like this one, a guide isn’t necessary. It was convenient for getting food ordered and bedding for the cots, but he really didn’t go beyond that. Having a guide who doesn’t really like his job, and wants to be an actor, may have been our downfall, and having a guide that has a lot to tell you about the area, or if you were going off the beaten track and doing a trek which is quite challenging, it would be great.

We flew back to Kathmandu to avoid the 7 hours micro-bus ride we had endured on the way to Pokhara and met a nice Irish guy at the airport. We shared a taxi to Thamel and went out for dinner at an Italian restaurant called La Dolce Vita  which was FANTASTIC. Because I got to eat bruschetta and bacon and parmesan and pasta and drink wine, and then have tiramisu, and feel thoroughly sick. It was Kinnari’s last night so her orphanage guy Rajendra came for dinner too which was great, and then he went home and we went to a bar called Reggae Bar and listened to the live band (actually pretty good!) and met up with some New Zealanders (suprise suprise) and other volunteers from Nepal Volunteer something or other. Had a great night, stayed in Thamel at a hostel with two of my new friends then hung out all the next day before returning home to find a new girl at the orphanage! She is English, and lovely, and staying for a week after having trekked Everest.

Anyway, got to get up early, we’re visiting the montesorri in the morning, and then have a big job of cleaning out the room for the library!

Lots of love to you all

x

2 comments:

  1. Well, climbing Taranaki should be a breeze at 2518m :) I struggle walking downhill too - my boots are slightly too small and if I haven't recently cut my toenails I lose them because they bang against the front of my boots. I should just buy new boots. I had to walk backwards one time.

    I look forward to the paragliding photos. Paragliders = big kites!

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  2. Fantastic reading...enjoyed it all and the photos too. I'd have been tempted to push the guide off a hill but guess that's not allowed. How annoying

    I'm not sure I could cope with all that climbing but I'd give it a go. Maybe we could do Taranaki togther:-)

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